The Romantic Recreation of Surfing

You have seen it, you probably think it is cool and if you are reading to the end of this article, chances are you want to try surfing. In a very basic sense, surfing is when wave riders navigate through the wave almost parallel to the beach and ride it all the way to shore. The goal however is to surf on the unbroken part of the wave till it ends. However, starting out in surfing can be daunting. It definitely looks dangerous, and it seems like there are a lot of things you have to know before you catch those beautiful waves. Fear not, this article will introduce you to the art of surfing and how surfers feel about it.

Believe it or not, wave riding dates back more than 4000 years according to the University of Hawaii! Note that wave riding dates back to 2000 BC, the sport of surfing however has their root around the 19th Century. From there it involved the phenomena it is today. There is a lot more to consider for surfers today. Where to catch the best waves, what kind of board to get, where to get it, what kind of equipment does one need, what kind of wetsuit should you get (in which case you should definitely check out O’Neill womans wetsuits). So how did surfing evolve?

Going from Recreation to Sport

It’s history lesson time.

Mentions of wave riding can be found throughout the centuries but the James Cook, the 18th century explorer, ship captain and navigator was the first English-speaking person to actually write about wave riding. He writes about what he saw during his journeys across Hawaii and Tahiti, how the natives were surfing with canoes and boards. It truly must have been a sight to see during that time.

Modern surfing, however, is considered to originate from Waikiki, a place on the island of Oahu, Hawaii. You will be interested to know that the first instances of modern surfing were when young boys from the island took tourists on the “wave riding” experience. And then there’s the father of modern surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, who took the “wave riding experience and gave it structure by making it a recreational activity with rules, equipment, technique and economics.

What does Surfing mean to You?

If you ask ten surfers what surfing means to them, you are likely going to get ten different answers. You have to surf to find what it means to you as well. For the majority, surfing is recreation, a hobby, a sport and a physical activity. However, there are others who consider surfing to be a way of life, a religion, their connection to Mother Nature, an addiction. Surfing can be a very romantic thing to some surfers and it is not that difficult to see why.

In a very short amount of time, surfing gave rise to a whole genre of other physical, recreational activities from kite-surfing to skateboarding. The phenomena became so ingrained in pop culture that the act of browsing the web was called “surfing” the web! Surfing is here to stay, and I hope you get to experience this beautiful recreation someday.

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